Every evening, as the lights come on across Lake Pichola, a courtyard in an old haveli on Gangaur Ghat fills up with travellers sitting shoulder to shoulder. A drum starts, a ghagra begins to spin, and for about an hour Rajasthan's folk traditions take over. This is Dharohar, and it's one of the easiest, best-value evenings you'll have in Udaipur.
What is Dharohar?
"Dharohar" means heritage, and that's the idea: a live showcase of folk dance and music from Rajasthan, performed in the courtyard of Bagore ki Haveli. The haveli itself is an 18th-century mansion on Gangaur Ghat that works as a museum during the day. In the evening, the courtyard becomes a stage.
It isn't a polished theatre production, and that's the charm. The performers come from families and communities where these songs and dances are passed down, and you can feel it.
What you'll see
The exact line-up varies from evening to evening, but these are the acts people talk about afterwards.
Ghoomar
The signature dance of Rajasthan. Women in long flared ghagras spin in slow, graceful circles until the skirts open out like flowers. It's hypnotic, and suddenly you understand why the dress has so much fabric.
Chari dance
Dancers balance brass pots on their heads, sometimes with flames burning inside, while moving with complete calm. Your shoulders will tense just watching.
Terah taali
Performers sit with small metal cymbals tied to their arms and legs, striking them in fast, intricate rhythms. Thirteen beats, one person, zero mistakes.
Bhavai
Usually the show-stopper: a dancer balancing a tall stack of pots on her head, then dancing on the rim of a brass plate or on glass. The crowd tends to go silent, then explode. If you've read our story of the Natini's curse, you'll think of her here.
Puppets and music
Expect a kathputli puppet segment, which kids adore, and folk musicians on instruments like the dholak and sometimes the ravanhatta. Listen for the singers; the voices carry beautifully in that courtyard.
When to go and how long it lasts
The show usually starts around 7 pm and runs for roughly an hour. Timings can shift with the season, so check the current schedule before you go, either at the haveli during the day or with your hotel.
Tickets are sold at the haveli gate before the show. There's often a separate charge for cameras. Check current fees on the day.
How to get a good seat
Seating is on low benches and steps around the courtyard, first come, first served. In peak season the queue on Gangaur Ghat can start well before showtime.
- Queue early. Aim to arrive 45 minutes to an hour before the start in winter and on weekends.
- Go for the front or the side facing the stage. Front rows give you the full drama of the bhavai act. Side seats can be better for photos.
- Pick a cushion if you need one. You'll be sitting for an hour. A light shawl helps on winter evenings.
- Take turns in the queue. One person holds the spot while the other grabs a chai nearby.
Local tip: Visit Bagore ki Haveli's museum in the afternoon, step out for the sunset on Gangaur Ghat, then join the queue. You'll get the whole haveli in one visit, and you'll already know your way to the courtyard.
Show etiquette
- No flash photography, and please don't stand up to film the whole show. The people behind you paid too.
- Applaud generously. The performers feed off the crowd.
- If children are with you, the front rows near the puppets are a hit, but keep little ones seated during the fire and pot-balancing acts.
Good to know: Gangaur Ghat is in the old city, where lanes are narrow and parking is scarce. Walk or take an auto to the nearest drop point and stroll the last stretch.
Make an evening of it
After the show, walk across the lake to the Lal Ghat side for dinner on a rooftop overlooking the water. If you loved the dancers' outfits, our guide to Mewar's traditional dress explains what you were looking at, and our art and crafts section tells you where to find puppets to take home. Visiting during a festival? Check Udaipur's events and festivals for bigger performances around town.
Quick answers
What time does the Dharohar show start in Udaipur?
Usually around 7 pm, running for roughly an hour. Check current timings before you go.
Do I need to book Dharohar tickets in advance?
Tickets are generally sold at the gate on the day, so the real trick is to queue early for a good seat.
Is the Bagore ki Haveli show good for kids?
Yes. The puppets and the pot-balancing act tend to be big hits with children.
