The first thing you notice at a kathputli show isn't the puppets. It's the sound: a high, buzzing squeak that somehow becomes a king's command, a dancer's laugh or a horse's whinny. Then a painted wooden face swings into the light, and every child in the room leans forward.
Rajasthan's string puppets are probably the most photographed craft in Udaipur, hanging in bright rows in shop doorways. Here's the story behind them, how a show actually works, and where to see one.
Where kathputli comes from
Kath means wood and putli means doll. Kathputli is a centuries-old form of folk theatre, carried from village to village by travelling families of puppeteers, traditionally from the Bhat community. Before cinema and television, these performers were news, history lesson and entertainment rolled into one evening.
The stories celebrate Rajput valour and local legend. Tales of brave kings, loyal warriors and royal courts are favourites, with interludes that have nothing to do with the plot and everything to do with the audience: a snake charmer, a juggler, a horse rider, a dancer who spins faster and faster until her skirt becomes a blur.
How a kathputli puppet is made
A traditional puppet has a carved wooden head, usually from a light wood such as mango, painted with huge almond eyes, a sharp nose and a bold moustache for the men. The body is stuffed cloth dressed in bright fabric, often with mirror work or gota trim. Many puppets have no legs at all; long skirts and angarkhas hide that, and the puppeteer's skill fills in the walking.
The strings run from the head, the hands and the waist to the puppeteer's fingers, sometimes attached to a simple wooden control. Simple puppets have just two or three strings, which makes the movement all the more impressive.
How a show works
The stage is often just a frame with a painted backdrop and a curtain, set up in a courtyard or on a platform. The puppeteer stands behind and above it, working the strings, while another performer (often a woman of the family) plays the dholak and sings the narrative.
That squeaky voice comes from a small reed whistle held in the puppeteer's mouth. It turns speech into a buzzing, cartoonish sound, and a good performer can make it sound angry, sad or hilarious. Children love it. Adults usually pretend not to, and then laugh hardest at the dancing puppet.
Puppetry is one thread in Mewar's wider world of folk performance, alongside ghoomar, kalbeliya, bhavai and the ravanhatta. Our culture page introduces the rest.
Where to see kathputli in Udaipur
Bhartiya Lok Kala Mandal
This folk arts museum near Panchwati Circle is the city's best-known home for puppets, with a large collection on display and regular puppet shows. Check current show timings before you go.
Shilpgram Utsav
Every December, Shilpgram's 10-day festival brings performers from across western India, and puppeteers are a regular sight among the stalls and stages. See our events and festivals page for the season's highlights.
Hotels, rooftops and the old city
Many heritage hotels and rooftop restaurants host short puppet performances in the evening, and you may stumble on a family performing in the old city lanes. If you enjoy a street show, a small tip is always appreciated.
Local tip: Travelling with kids? Sit them near the front. The puppeteer often makes a puppet "notice" the children, and a wooden dancer waving at you is the highlight of many a family holiday.
Bringing a puppet home
Kathputlis make wonderful, light gifts. A few things to check:
- The head. It should be carved wood, with a little weight to it, not moulded plastic.
- The painting. Hand-painted faces vary slightly from puppet to puppet. Identical faces suggest mass production.
- The costume. Look for stitched, layered fabric rather than glued scraps.
- Pairs. Puppets are often sold as a king and queen or a dancing couple, which look great hung together.
Ask the seller to show you how to work it; most will give you a quick lesson. You'll find puppets around Hathi Pol and the Jagdish Temple lanes, covered in our markets guide.
Good to know: To stop the strings tangling on the flight home, wind them neatly around the control bar and slip the puppet into a cloth bag.
Quick answers
What is kathputli?
A traditional Rajasthani string-puppet theatre using carved wooden puppets, music and a squeaky reed-whistle voice to tell stories of kings, heroes and village life.
Where can I watch a puppet show in Udaipur?
Bhartiya Lok Kala Mandal holds regular shows, and puppeteers perform at Shilpgram Utsav and at many hotels in the evening. Check timings locally.
Are kathputli puppets good souvenirs?
Yes. They're light, colourful and easy to pack. Choose ones with carved wooden heads and hand-painted faces.
